bluconnection information june 08, 2018
bluconnection opinion towards labels and certificates
view on denim, indigo and aniline
“target is to connect and bring people across cultures and countries together who share similar ethical values and who are committed to achieve business success.
we take calculated risks to be among the leading companies in our field of activity. we provide internationally acknowledged quality products and services. we encourage creativity, ideas and entrepreneurial and responsible behaviour towards people and the environment.
together we move and drive things forward either on global or local level – there is potential, big and small, everywhere.
we are rooted in reality and reflect and adapt in an ever changing world.
we conclude based on facts and best knowledge. we put our conclusions into action and we express our opinion if business interests disregard business ethics failing people and the environment.”
development of labels and certification industry
- we see an explosion in the numbers of certificates and eco labelling programs across the world.
- there is countless information available in the internet. to get a first general overview you may check e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecolabel
- the certification initiative originated to protect consumers and, among others, promote safety and health in the product chain and minimise ecological impact of primary production.
- NGO’s and non-profit oriented organisations were driving this subject in the beginning.
- ‘green stickers’ originated in the 70’s especially in north america, canada and europe.
- ISO certification originated in the 80’s.
- eco certificates originated in the 90’s.
- today it is a profit oriented business model.
view on denim, indigo and aniline
- indigo cannot be compared to those aniline containing dyestuffs, which can generate harmful aniline compounds on the dyed fabric.
- in all marketed indigo products worldwide we find aniline.
- bc experienced that standard testing methods to detect aniline show varying results (up to 56%).
- depending on the testing lab aniline content may vary between 300-8000 ppm. bluconnection aniline content varies between 600-1000ppm.
- at any point in the production chain of denim the original amount of aniline is extracted to the minimum – in synthesis, hydrogenation or application in the denim mill.
- aniline has no affinity to cotton.
- on the denim fabric aniline is on the limit of detection and according to historic and current knowledge and experience not harmful for the consumer. therefore, aniline levels were not determined for indigo as it was understood that for indigo dyed fabric this is not relevant.
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bluconnection opinion and responsibility
- we do not know of any certificate or label organisation being in the qualified position to judge all steps in the production of denim. our focus is from the production of indigo to denim dyeing.
- accordingly, there is no certificate or label which can provide either a value adding conclusion (certificate or label) for the consumer or any profound and value adding guideline for the indigo and denim industry.
- we must understand that the concern is not the indigo molecule itself.
- the impurities (aniline and others) from the production synthesis process are our concern.
- we are aware of our responsibility and contribute our part to the denim chain.
- we produce with present best know-ledge an excellent quality of indigo considering stringent safety and health rules and regulations with the least environmental impact in our singapore production.
- we work hard to move further ahead.
- the certificate and label industry today is driven by profitability and potentially taking advantage of limited consumer knowledge. the trend of increasing consumer awareness towards eco labels and certificates may be exploited.
- there is a potential for misuse of certificates and labels. the chance to market any product under “eco” aspects opens the door to avoid or even eliminate competition.
- lobbyism must be ruled out with regard to eco labels and certificates.
“we support consumer oriented, informative labels and certificates giving profound guidelines to support the industry.
we need an improved dialogue about certification and its role in supply chains. to achieve this, the indigo producing industry with their know how and experience has to connect with trade, retailers and brands. policymakers have to make sure that objective research and science is involved as well and guidelines are defined and implemented. finally trusted media communicates transparent and objective criteria.
this brings us a step closer to a more sustainable supply chain and well informed, protected denim industry participants and denim consumers.”
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