bluconnection information | december 05, 2019
get real!
FOR CUSTOMERS, RETAILERS AND TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN
as a reaction to our information from june 11, 2019 a pre-reduced indigo manufacturer decided to write a letter to you, our customers and partners insisting on their ‘asterisks’ marketing.
we are fine with ‘asterisks’ in general. our indignation is about ‘asterisks’ which are misleading the global indigo and denim community. in bluconnection we are concerned when chemistry and chemical facts are mixed up with ‘asterisk’ marketing strategies. chemistry is based on knowledge and a scientific approach. denim mills, retailers and consumers deserve facts and figures and trustworthy communication with regard to chemical substances. they should not be confused, eventually misled and worried by ‘asterisk’ marketing. there are valid issues in the textile industry to be tackled by everyone in the supply chain but we oppose ‘homemade’ issues in our industry to gain an edge.
from a serious and reliable company we expect respect, reflection and thought on our clarifying information from june 11. their letter from june 13 followed our information from june 11 too fast to believe that any consideration happened. please find below excerpts of the letter dated june 13 to customers and partners in blue italic and our comments.
Subject: We stand behind the asterisk.
we regret that our point regarding reckless ‘asterisk’ marketing is not acknowledged and reconsidered.
it’s about *BEING TRANSPARENT, *BEING SCIENTIFIC and *LEADING THE WAY!
we support these claims although we do not understand the asterisks.
Dear Customer, Dear Partner, A pre-reduced indigo manufacturer has recently attacked aniline-free* pre-reduced liquid indigo …
we oppose the aniline free ‘asterisk’ and the misleading information distributed through various media channels.
… The anilinefree* Pure Indigo produced in our facility in Jamshoro, Pakistan, is an example of this commitment.
this product is not aniline free. since our june 11 information, over a period of 6 months, we still have not come across a product in the market which contains less than 50 ppm of aniline. we find marketed products between 51-1500ppm.
Not only are their arguments misleading but the manufacturer in question is fighting the wrong battle.
we neither fought a ‘battle’ in the past nor do we fight a ‘battle’ now. with regard to chemical products we are striving for knowledge based marketing and we express our opinion as an independent producer if business interests disregard business ethics failing people and the environment (excerpt from bluconnection mission). in our opinion the aniline free indigo is hypocritical marketing to support a strategic business target. we understand that for decades there is indeed a ‘battle’ in the market to replace indigo with sulphur dyes. so far without success. we can imagine that now pre- reduced indigo is used as a door opener and that the target is to replace indigo in the long run. involving retailers, denim mills and consumers providing questionable information and ‘asterisk’ marketing, to support this ‘idea’ is ruthless business practice. if retailers join ‘their battle’, the EBIT impact for this sulphur dyes producing company is obviously very different. you find numerous links proving this strategy (including the links mentioned in their letter). the indigo manufacturing industry understands this attempt. there is nothing wrong to fight for a good idea or a good EBIT but we reject misleading ‘asterisk’ marketing to achieve this target.
Argument #1:
‘Aniline has no affinity to cotton. (…), all indigo variations whether powder, granular, paste or pre-reduced liquid indigo can achieve an *aniline free denim’. It’s not that simple
it is that simple!
– see why in our video on the topic. The fact is that some denim articles on the market contain aniline.
this video, its simplifying content and wrong conclusions, is not a good example for a self acclaimed ‘being scientific’ and ‘being transparent’ attitude. we affirm the information provided on june 11. it is important to note that all indigo dyed denim including denim dyed with ‘asterisk’ aniline free product can contain traces of aniline. the application process and the industrial hygiene in the denim mill is key to aniline free denim. we are clear in our communication to the market: all indigo forms in the market applied correctly in the denim mill are able to produce aniline free denim.
So what’s the problem with aniline?
Aniline is dangerous for the workers in the mill.
with pre-reduced indigo this is no issue since there is no aniline contact to workers. in this respect indigo granules and powders are disadvantageous compared to pre-reduced indigo.
Aniline is toxic for the aquatic life.
this is another example of an irresponsible and misleading message. talking about chemical substances it is common sense that quantity matters. correct is that aniline and other chemical substances are released to the wastewater treatment plant in the denim mill and not directly to water (aquatic life).
Wouldn’t it be simpler to just have aniline-free* indigo in the first place?
yes, why not a better product … but without asterisk and serious and reliable information for all market players instead.
Argument #2:
Aniline-free* indigo is not aniline free. We know that - and we’re transparent about it.
this is our point confirmed.
… made the conscious choice to systematically use an asterisk leading the mention ‘below limits of detection’ on purpose. We made the choice to be transparent. It’s not about *fake marketing, it’s about *BEING TRANSPARENT, *BEING SCIENTIFIC and *LEADING THE WAY to make denim cleaner.
with regard to indigo we made our point.
The test method to determine aniline levels in Denisol®Pure Indigo is based upon ISO 14362-1 which has a detection limit of <10 ppm. We also had our aniline-free* product tested by recognized test labs: TesTex in Zurich and SGS in Hong Kong with non-detectable values
after experiencing asterisk marketing we have to question how testing with regard to aniline is handled. we cannot confirm quoted test results. our tests are carried out by certified testing labs. one relevant question remains: how is it possible that with the testing method applied in the institutes, test certificates mentioning aniline content below 5ppm are issued?
In our market evaluations of competitive pre-reduced liquid indigo products, we have found the level of aniline to be between 400 to 2000 ppm.
we find aniline levels in pre-reduced indigo between 51-1500ppm.
We are a responsible company and we try to do our part, step by step, so yes our indigo is aniline-free* at this stage.
again the ‘asterisk’. this is contradicting the above para in which it was acknowledged that their product contains aniline.
Other manufacturers can help us all by focusing on supporting the industry efforts to make clean indigo – and clean denim.
bluconnection and other indigo producers with their various indigo products manufacture aniline free denim since many years with their customers and partners.
In fact, other pre-reduced indigo manufacturers are exploring aniline-free indigo alternatives. Those who are not will be left behind.
contrary to companies with too many dyes to have passion for just one, indigo is bluconnection’s passion. we are working on all kinds of indigo solution(s) and we are exploring innovative – indigo like – alternatives.
dear customer, dear retailer, dear consumer and to whom it may concern
let's not put our reputation and credibility at risk. we call on the denim supply chain to get real and abandon reckless marketing. we appeal to all to commit to factual and trustworthy communication to the market.
best regards
peter zinser
bluconnection
if you are interested in further information about indigo or indigo dyeing please contact us at mail@bluconnection.com
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